The Time of the Ironic 4th of July

This morning we set off to one of Teo's London recommendations - Portobello Market in Notting Hill. It was about a 40 minute bus ride, but so worth it when we got there to see the adorable little town houses with colorful doors and paint. It was a lot more quaint and local-esque than central London.

 (Hi Mom, this is a blue door in Notting Hill just for you ;)

 (At the entrance of the market, there were people pretending to be Alice and Wonderland characters. And this was no cheap make up - this was detailed with a set and props)

The market was an excellent recommendation, as blocks upon blocks of little stores had vendors outside selling silver goods, bags, scarves, antiques, souvenirs etc. It was a wonderful market; I'm learning that markets here do not usually mean food. I really enjoyed the crowds of people looking at these items for sale even though it was a little overwhelming deciding what to buy.

I ended up getting my sister an English straw hat and my mom a little flower-patterned English creamer. 

At about 11:30 a.m. we set off walking towards Kensington Palace. This is an illustrative example of one annoying part of London: everything is called the same name. For example, we initially got lost at our residence because there's a Camden Market, Camden Station, Camden High Street, Camden Garden, and Camden Town. Kensington was similar. Imagine us walking from this market without Wifi or directions, aimlessly following street signs to Kensington Palace. Then the streets are called Kensington Garden, Kensington Terrace, Kensington Garden Terrace... you get the idea. Which one do we take?! 

Eventually we did see a fancy gate that we assumed went on their street. Photography wasn't allowed, but all the houses were white and gorgeous, until eventually at the end we saw the red bricks of the palace. Kensington Park had some dead grass but was otherwise cheerful. The set of gates facing part of the palace displayed flowers, happy birthday balloons and signs and pictures of Diana. I'm assuming her birthday is near. 

Next up on our itinerary (which, by the way, we planned last night and used Google maps at our residence while we still had wifi, so pat on the back to us for that) was Harrods. We took a bus from the sidewalk near Kensington to Knightsbridge and turned the corner to see this huge store that had to be Harrods. Little green overhangs trimmed the bottom floor - the store in general reminded me of Macy's in New York City or something because of how big and beautiful it must be at Christmas time. 

I can't even explain how confusing the layout of this store is for me. It's open, with pathways walking through stores instead of closed off rooms with doors, and elevators at the heart of this nightmarish maze. They have employees all over the store with gold sashes (like in beauty pageants) just so you can ask them where to go. Designer stores, suitcase stores, housewares items... it was like every store packed into one. Finally we made it to the Tea Room, which was one of the top things I wanted to do in London. 

We only had to wait in line a little bit, and then they sat us down against a green cushion in a bright yellow room. Everything is served on Wedgwood - a pretty strawberry pattern - and made me feel super fancy. I ordered "The Wedgwood" tea meal, which includes a tea (I chose the 1849 blend from India), scones with jam and butter, finger sandwiches and a dessert choice (I chose salted caramel sea salt). 

The scones were not as rough-textured as in the US, but looked more like giant cream puffs in shape and were tasty with the thick white butter and strawberry jam. The baby sandwiches were cream cheese and cucumber, cream cheese and salmon (delicious despite my usual indifference to salmon), and a roast beef bleu cheese I gather. My dessert was wonderful (of course it has to be my favorite) as it was a layered cake-like pastry with a dense chocolate bottom, soft caramel custard in layers and lighter chocolate cream, adorned with chocolate candies. It was so rich I absolutely couldn't finish it! 

I'm very glad I could have this experience while in England - what other way can you eat lunch here? Eve though I think it's supposed to be a dish in between lunch and dinner, oh well. 

We hoped on the tube (our first underground experience) to Westminster to catch our free boat ride. Luckily our voucher allowed us to skip the long line of ticket-buyers and we boarded a huge boat on the Thames. Don't know if I mentioned it, but this river is so much dirtier than the Seine. 

Our boat tour lasted almost 30 minutes as our funny guide pointed out famous landmarks along the way. He joked about one of the alternate languages on the headset guide being American. 

(London Bridge finally- the fifth one in 1,000 years!)

Our ticket enabled us to go by boat all the way to Greenwich, but we got off at the Tower of London since Greenwich would apparently take another hour and we wanted to see some other sights. 

I'm learning that everything touristy in this town costs 20 pounds. The Tower was no different, and it was closing in an hour. Yet the museums are free?! What. 

So anyway, we admired the castle-like brickwork, watched the Tower Bridge be lifted, and went in line to see the crown jewels. 

The line to see the crown jewels was unreal (not actually that bad, I'm learning some can be worse) but the entire exhibit was a dark room with an assembly line of being in a school of fish moving to see a gold scepter. We stepped on a flat moving escalator, like those in the airport, to see the crowns. The diamonds were so beautiful and the crowns emanated power. We noticed the christening items were gone and had signs that said "in use" because of Princess Charlotte's christening tomorrow, we presumed. Despite the ushered crowds in the dark hallways, I did like going in these castle towers to see gems. No pics allowed inside, unfortunately. What does my money buy me?!

We had time to go in the white tower, too, to see knight armor, cannons and an indian headdress. 

Once the tower closed, we took our new best friend, the tube, to St. Paul's. It was stuffy inside the tube, even though it's perfect summer weather here. Breezy and sunny! However, once we got to the cathedral, we saw that not only is the admission 18 pounds, but also that it closes at 11:30 a.m. every day?! What?! New theme of London: "What?!"

And we learned that it's closed for sightseeing on Sundays, so sadly I won't be seeing the inside for myself. I guess I've seen a good amount of churches in Europe thus far. The outside was still nice...

Below is the bonus pic of the day: classic Brits, watching an outdoor screening of Wimbledon in a square outside St. Paul's Cathedral. Can you get any more English? Maybe add some tea and a union jack. 

By crossing a bridge (which was featured in the delightful Harry Potter films), we walked to Tate Modern which (thank God!) was open and free - we lucked out there. 

However, unfortunately, the main gallery in the center of the building was under construction. I remember hearing that usually the whole room is a modern art piece, but this time it was just empty with a sign saying it's changing soon. The information desk said an exhibit is only here six months of the year; we left, but I was still glad we attempted to see it - nothing we can do about that. And it was still very big and open.

By walking along the south bank towards the London Eye, we scouted out where we could eat. Eventually we just went into a random bar/restaurant/something and I had fish and chips because in England, French fries really are called chips so I had to. A lot of restaurants advertise fish and chips in huge print, so I figured it must be a popular choice here. 

(I found humor in the ratio of vegetables to all other food. Sadly, this is more vegetables that I've been having in Paris and London. How are people here at all fit?)

The fish was actually probably the best fish and chips I've had, because it was crispy and not soggy, and wasn't separated from the fish but actually cooked onto the fish well. 

To end our evening, we caught the night tour bus near Westminster Bridge after hurrying from dinner. The last tour begins at 8:30 p.m. even though the sun is barely starting to set. It was very beautiful because it had a different route than usual, through the west end by the Marble Arch, Soho, Oxford Street, Piccadily Circus, etc. 

 (Marble Arch - old entrance of Buckingham Palace)

I thoroughly loved this night tour, because I love cities at night - especially with dazzling lights. This area was described as the young area that stays open late with shops and pubs and squares. It reminded me of Times Square because of the lights - and I savored the view from the very top of the decker bus. I could've ridden it all night!

(This is blurry on purpose because I'm artsy...)

We got off the night tour early because we didn't want to be out late in the dark, going back to the residence on the bus and walking back from the bus stop. But we did stay to see the sunset in front of Big Ben. 

That's it for now, London! You're growing on me, though sometimes you're overwhelming. People are much stranger here - they have dyed hair and piercings and like skulls and books. I can't believe I came into this country without a real plan and sometimes without direction and managed to survive. I was definitely lot more independent and responsible here because it was just me and my friend navigating this cosmopolitan capital.  

The English are a lot more eccentric than Parisians, but it is also exciting watching specks of people on the street hanging out at night in Trafalgar Square or in side streets. Happy 4th of July, from the country we declared independence from - très ironic.

The Time We Toured at Night

I started off Wednesday with the local market again - this time I got peaches and a quiche lorraine for breakfast.

On this hottest day of the week (102 degrees), we had the afternoon free. Some people went to museums or just stayed inside to rest. I decided to visit a mall for a bit because it was air conditioned and took less time than a museum. Galeries Lafayette is a really fancy mall with a huge dome roof like some of the churches we've been to.

Inside, it's almost like a bazaar with stations of different brands, instead of rooms. They just have their products laid out on tables and in shelves out in the open, with lots of security guards around to watch you. This is probably the most expensive mall I've been to - the stores are all designers from Coach, Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Chanel, Prada - all those. Around the circumference are the stores, and then in the open center there are little stations for makeup. The bottom floor is purses, where I looked the most, then clothing on the upper levels. 

Edit: I went back another day and bought a Marc Jacobs wallet. Even though he's American, I can still say I got a designer handbag in Paris. Woohoo! I really needed a new one so it was a special treat.  

The mall was insane. Since all the sales are going on in Paris, all the designer items were 50% off, so people were shoving left and right to grab up whatever they could like some sort of weird shopoholic horror movie. Even though the sale has been going on for a week! Shopping is the only area I've noticed where Americans are more polite than French. Even in local boutiques, people have no personal bubbles. If I'm looking at a rack of clothing, people come up and look at the shirt right next to yours and put their hands in your space. It's normal here apparently. 

At 6:45 p.m. we all met to go on a class picnic near the river by the Mabillon metro stop. It was really nice eating cheese, meats, breads, fruits, juice and cookies on the edge in the golden light. The whole bank was covered with people picnicking - it's definitely a favorite pastime here. 

Though we had a night walk, it was still unbearably hot. Between the humidity and the smoke, the air is just so thick and stuffy. It felt like a sauna as we embarked on a 2.5 hour walk. People kept buying water bottles for like 2 euros each every time we passed a market because they were dropping like flies.

The theme of this trip was kind of rags to riches, as we first started in the more poor, scandalous neighborhood where prostitutes hang out in the streets when it's darker. Teo said in Paris, prostitution is legal and even unionized. The streets still looked nice because it was Paris, but we saw a huge cluster of pigeons and even a rat (i.e. Remi from Ratatouille).

Soon we turned towards the nicer streets like Boulevard des Capucines. The sunset was radiant as it peeped over the rooftops.

 I enjoyed this part because it felt like a vibrant city with lights, marquees, cars, and a large road. Teo said there was no shame in going back if we were collapsing from heat, but someone shouted "Come on, if Teo can do it, we can do it." And Teo joked that he is four times our age so we can make it to the end. And we did!

Soon we turned down the Rodeo Drive of Paris - the richest address of Paris lined with extravagant stores. The flagship Cartier, the Hyatt, the Ritz (which was under construction), Chanel and others all on this Rue de la Paix.

This is where we ended our tour. Teo pointed some of us towards the Tuileries Garden to savor the carnival at night. It's very weird to see places I've seen in paintings - the Tuileries and Capucines - now turned modern with cars and amusement parks.

A group of us watched people on the rides and a few people went on one or two. We waited at the bottom of a water slide ride and splashed each other discreetly because it was so hot (even back at the hotel at 1 am, I checked and it was 82 degrees). One of the French people at the carnival noticed we were American and asked if we know Kanye West, which was so funny.

I boarded the ferris wheel with one girl, so we could see the whole city at night. It was very beautiful, with lights illuminating Sacre Coeur, the Eiffel, Notre Dame, the Louvre and the Arc, which were in all different directions around us. Magnifique!

Well, now I'm off to London for our long weekend with another girl. I think I might accidentally speak French to people there. Hopefully I will have Wifi to write about this upcoming adventure - au revoir! 

The Time I Saw True Wealth Part 2

Sunday was a free day, so a group of us decided to embark on the hour-long journey to Versailles, since it's a full-day trip. Teo hates Versaille and says it is a gorilla compared to Vaux le Vicomte and really just a nightmare. Now we know why. 

It's exactly like Disneyland meets Central Park. I make this comparison to emphasize both the horror and the splendor of visiting a magical kingdom: it's a huge gigantic impossible-to-get-through estate with hoards of tourists shoving each other to look at King Louis XIV's bed. Of course it was beautiful in its grandeur and symmetry and landscaping and gold touches, but it was an exhausting trip. And it didn't help that it was 90 degrees as we walked through an enormous estate on empty stomachs. 

(The view from the back)

(A typical ceiling)

 (Fountain in their backyard, no big deal)

We arrived at Versailles at about 10 a.m. and didn't get inside the entrance until noon. What were we doing, you may ask? Waiting in the longest line I have ever seen, which wound six times around the entrance courtyard in order to scan our tickets to get in. Did I mention it was 90 degrees? 

Now that I am officially a Versailles expert, having been in the first group of my program to go, here are my tips in case you ever find yourself in Paris wanting to visit Versailles: 

•   Don't. 

•   But in all seriousness, if your heart is set on seeing the most magnificent palace in France or even the world, at least don't go on a weekend unless it's your only free time like us. 

•   Aim to arrive at 8:30 a.m. since it opens at 9 a.m. Leaving our hotel in Paris at 8 a.m. was mistake #1. 

•    Bring sunscreen, shorts, sunglasses, comfortable shoes and water if it might be at all hot. Apparently the sun shines a lot brighter on an open park than it does in the city (duh); so many people we passed were absolutely tomato-red all over. 

•   Eat a huge breakfast and bring snacks. I made a big mistake, since I'm used to eating a light breakfast.

•   Rent a bicycle to ride from the Versailles palace to Marie Antoinette's estate - it's a long walk in the heat. I didn't rent a bicycle because I never learned to ride one, but I wish I could ride because everyone had fun and got there much quicker. 

(Marie Antoinette's estate)

•   Don't bring your dog. The poor puppies were panting and/or absolutely covered in dirt. 

•   Most importantly, go there with the expectation that you are going to a tourist trap with a ton of people and a ton of lines. Don't act surprised by this.

Now, I'm not trying to be negative. I actually didn't expect it to be any better than it was, and if I would've known all this would happen, I still would've gone once for the experience. The palace was beautiful, especially the hall of mirrors which made me feel like I was in the movie "Anastasia." The mirrors, which were very valuable back then, reflect the windows on the opposite wall in a hallway lined with chandeliers and a painted ceiling. 

(The Hall of Mirrors)

It was incredible to see the king's wealth and imagine the royals strolling through the paths in the garden - no wonder the peasants rebelled in the revolution against the wealthy monarchy. I feel jaded to impressive homes now. Even Marie Antoinette's corner estate seemed "small" to me, until I realized that it's probably bigger than any house I've been in before this trip, with like 10 bedrooms. 

Oh, and to top off the trip, the metro station was closed on the way back so we all (us and a swarm of tourists) had to walk over a mile to the next station after our already-long day of walking. I am so sweaty and hot and tired - just in time for our class tomorrow morning. Teo was right about Versailles, but I'm still glad I went. Such a luxury-packed weekend.  

The Time I Saw True Wealth Part 1

This was certainly a weekend of beautiful buildings - namely, castles.

Saturday began with a trip to Sainte Chapelle, a church near Notre Dame known for its tall stained glass windows. It was indeed very impressive, with scenes of the Bible depicted in dozens of panes. I love that on the outside, you don't know there's stained glass but once you get in, you can see the colorful light reflecting like a disco ball.

We tried to go inside Notre Dame afterwards, but it was closed for a special event and only French people could go inside. After later hearing of dangerous events in Lyon, we thought maybe it was connected to that but I haven't heard anything else about those events. It was still nice to walk around the St Michelle area.

Our class met at 5:45 p.m. for a special night adventure to Vaux le Vicomte, a palace apparently created by a top painter, architect and landscaper - the same as Versailles. But Teo loves this one more because it's smaller and simpler, yet still grand. He always says less is more. We brought sandwiches to eat on the bus; mine was ham + butter = great.

Let me tell you, Vaux le Vicomte was completely beautiful. It's a perfect castle enclosed behind gates, surrounded by a mote, and placed in front of a beautiful garden with reflecting pools. Also, the absolute best part: it's lit with candles every Saturday night. Literally, employees go around the property lighting hundreds of candles that are placed along the walkways and in the windows and all over.

There were ropes leading us through the mansion tour. The hallways were all painted a lovely golden yellow, with many bedrooms and parlors with dark tapestries and red curtains and painted ceilings. So extravagant.

One of my favorite parts of the interior was downstairs in the dungeon. Though it was chilly, I enjoyed seeing the servant's quarters, the kitchen, and a huge tunnel with barrels that was maybe a cellar or stable - my guesses. It was a nice break from velvet and porcelain and gold picture frames.

However, once we exited into the backyard, our mouths dropped. It was so pretty and delicate and impressive yet simple. A path ran through the center, with pools of water or lawns on the side. We couldn't stop taking pictures. The sky was the cherry on top, with the clouds striated across the sky in little chunks like shattered glass. Teo's wife, Scarlett, said this is the prettiest she's ever seen it.

As we made our way down the stairs into the garden, I wanted to soak it all in. Even though there are a lot of gardens on the West Coast, this was just elegant wealth and perfectly designed. Teo said around 10 p.m. when it slightly begins to get dark, we should wait behind the rectangular pool at the back of the estate to see the reflection in the water. As we waited, we saw giant fish swim up begging for food. Behind us, a giant Hercules statue protruded out of a huge grassy hill, a 40 minute walk away down a winding path. Many were over there picnicking, but we waited for the reflection.

It was breathtaking. Teo said this is the highlight of the trip and I know why. As the sunset, the reflection of the palace appeared in the still pool of water. The candles that lined the stairs and windows began to appear as well. Both inside and outside felt like a Halloween mansion with candles and darkness and dungeons. But pleasantly so!

There were not many tourists at Vaux le Vicomte, though there were a fair few to fill the stairs as they sat to watch the lights or have a romantic candle dinner at a restaurant on the property.

I loved it. I love lights. I loved the palace. And as we began to board the bus, the firework show began. We could see it from above a rooftop. It topped off the most beautiful night. A great merging of natural beauty and artificial construction.