The Time I Climbed 1,091 Stairs

Yes, 1,091 stairs in one day because Notre Dame has 387 and the Tour Eiffel has 704. But apparently 387 + 704 = 2 amazing views.

Today we got up extra early to leave at 9 am for Chateau de Vincennes, a medieval castle! It was like a fairytale castle, except the real thing in its antiquated state. The color was very faded, with many tones of yellow or brown or beige. 

We had tickets to cross the bridge over a field of grass (like a mote) and go up into the tower. There were spiral staircases here, too, as we climbed up to see the small rooms and chambers. No furniture was present, but merely rooms of brick and old fireplaces. A balcony was on the other side of the little bridge, where we could see the grounds. The building across from us (which we didn't go into) kind of looked like Versailles on the outside. This medieval castle was never taken during the wars.

Across the castle towers was a church, which was as white and clean as the Chartres Cathedral. The stained glass never comes out as radiant in my photos, but I really enjoyed sitting in the bright church with those common arched ceilings.    

For lunch, we walked around the back of Chateau de Vincennes to a park-like wooded area on the other side of the street. It was a really nice park with dusty gravel paths and even a pond with lilypads. Teo had brought us sandwiches, so I ate a curry chicken one with avocados while sitting on the grass among the flowers. 

After the picnic, Teo led an optional walk to Canal St. Martin, so I went along to see it. Though the area was perhaps a little grimy and grungy and not as nice as the Seine, I liked seeing people hanging out around the canal with the water so high.

At one point, we saw a boat coming up the canal so we waited to watch. Since the canal is tiered, they have a special process to open the canal and let the water levels equal out, raising the boat, so it can sail through. Here is the blockage when it's closed, but we watched it for about 15 minutes while it opened.

We also met up with one of Teo's old students who gave us each a slice of a fruit tart that was brilliantly flakey. After this stroll along the canal, I branched off with two girls to go to Notre Dame, since we embarrassingly have been here over two weeks and have not gone inside. The line in the front was about 30 minutes to get inside the church. 

It was really similar to every other church we've been to, to be honest, with arched ceilings, stained glass rose windows, and gothic details. However, I was surprised by how dark it was inside, with very little light shining through even with several chandeliers and candles around. Posters described the history of its construction, and I could see what Teo was talking about when he said that it was built over such a long period of time, adding other styles to change it.

Another line greeted us outside, this time an hour long wait to pay to climb the 387 stairs to the top. I'll repeat: waiting in line to pay to walk up stairs. That's right. Despite the winding spiral staircases, it was worth it. We stopped at the first level to see the complete 180 degree view of Paris in front of us, with the array of gargoyles and rooftops of Notre Dame behind us. Really stunning, even on this cloudy day. In fact, it started raining while we were up there but oh well. 

 (The view is so breathtaking in person, seeing all the perfectly Parisian buildings and all the landmarks that we can now recognize.)

We walked up more stairs, first to the bell tower to see the giant bells and then to the top of the left tower. We had five minutes at the top, but you can even see the Arc de Triomphe from here, though much of the view was the same as the first level. I was so glad I went to Notre Dame - I can never get over these aerial views of Paris.

Once we wound back down the stairs, we stopped along the bridges nearby to look at art for sale. There are a lot vendors here drawing caricatures or selling paintings or prints of Paris. I LOVE these artworks because they try to capture the fleeting nature of this city, so it makes sense why the impressionists loved Paris. It started to downpour, so I quickly bought a little impressionist painting of the Eiffel Tower, but every stand I passed had wonderful pictures. Wish I could collect them all. 

For dinner, I went to the grocery store Franprix to get cheese-filled pasta. I'm discovering little hidden foods of Paris in these markets that aren't exactly famous Parisian but that I enjoy. For example, there's this fig and nut cheese that has the texture of chunky cream cheese and a salty and sweet taste. And there are these sodas called Oasis (not oasis like the desert, but pronounced oh-ay-sees). They will correct you on your pronunciation if you say oasis. Anyway, I've had both raspberry and tropical flavors, the latter of which is the best soda here. I don't think these are even French things, but I've never seen them at home. 

Post-dinner a group of us decided to climb the Eiffel Tour because it was one girl's birthday (yes, another birthday!). We left around 10 p.m. so we could see it sparkle starting at 11. However, apparently we should've gone earlier because they said that once you walk up the stairs to the second level, you have to buy another ticket to ride the lift to the very top and it might close soon. 

So we tried to climb the tower really fast, but I actually ended up losing them for a while because I stopped on the first level to look at the view. Then I spent a long time just looking for them, climbing the next set of unbearably endless stairs. It's really cool being inside the tower at night, when it's lit up so you can see the intricate metallic weavings illuminated. 

We didn't make it in time to buy tickets to the top, but the view from the second tier is still amazing at night. I especially love the northwest view of the Seine.

And, as always, at 11 p.m., the tower sparkles for five minutes, which was unbelievably neat to see from right there. The lightbulbs just flicker on and off and create weird shadows when you're up there. It was great, other than the part about losing my group for 20 minutes. 

So, all in all, like I said - 1,091 stairs at Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower. Even more if you count Chateau de Vicennes. But, it was a day of breathtaking views as well. 

The Time I Saw True Wealth Part 2

Sunday was a free day, so a group of us decided to embark on the hour-long journey to Versailles, since it's a full-day trip. Teo hates Versaille and says it is a gorilla compared to Vaux le Vicomte and really just a nightmare. Now we know why. 

It's exactly like Disneyland meets Central Park. I make this comparison to emphasize both the horror and the splendor of visiting a magical kingdom: it's a huge gigantic impossible-to-get-through estate with hoards of tourists shoving each other to look at King Louis XIV's bed. Of course it was beautiful in its grandeur and symmetry and landscaping and gold touches, but it was an exhausting trip. And it didn't help that it was 90 degrees as we walked through an enormous estate on empty stomachs. 

(The view from the back)

(A typical ceiling)

 (Fountain in their backyard, no big deal)

We arrived at Versailles at about 10 a.m. and didn't get inside the entrance until noon. What were we doing, you may ask? Waiting in the longest line I have ever seen, which wound six times around the entrance courtyard in order to scan our tickets to get in. Did I mention it was 90 degrees? 

Now that I am officially a Versailles expert, having been in the first group of my program to go, here are my tips in case you ever find yourself in Paris wanting to visit Versailles: 

•   Don't. 

•   But in all seriousness, if your heart is set on seeing the most magnificent palace in France or even the world, at least don't go on a weekend unless it's your only free time like us. 

•   Aim to arrive at 8:30 a.m. since it opens at 9 a.m. Leaving our hotel in Paris at 8 a.m. was mistake #1. 

•    Bring sunscreen, shorts, sunglasses, comfortable shoes and water if it might be at all hot. Apparently the sun shines a lot brighter on an open park than it does in the city (duh); so many people we passed were absolutely tomato-red all over. 

•   Eat a huge breakfast and bring snacks. I made a big mistake, since I'm used to eating a light breakfast.

•   Rent a bicycle to ride from the Versailles palace to Marie Antoinette's estate - it's a long walk in the heat. I didn't rent a bicycle because I never learned to ride one, but I wish I could ride because everyone had fun and got there much quicker. 

(Marie Antoinette's estate)

•   Don't bring your dog. The poor puppies were panting and/or absolutely covered in dirt. 

•   Most importantly, go there with the expectation that you are going to a tourist trap with a ton of people and a ton of lines. Don't act surprised by this.

Now, I'm not trying to be negative. I actually didn't expect it to be any better than it was, and if I would've known all this would happen, I still would've gone once for the experience. The palace was beautiful, especially the hall of mirrors which made me feel like I was in the movie "Anastasia." The mirrors, which were very valuable back then, reflect the windows on the opposite wall in a hallway lined with chandeliers and a painted ceiling. 

(The Hall of Mirrors)

It was incredible to see the king's wealth and imagine the royals strolling through the paths in the garden - no wonder the peasants rebelled in the revolution against the wealthy monarchy. I feel jaded to impressive homes now. Even Marie Antoinette's corner estate seemed "small" to me, until I realized that it's probably bigger than any house I've been in before this trip, with like 10 bedrooms. 

Oh, and to top off the trip, the metro station was closed on the way back so we all (us and a swarm of tourists) had to walk over a mile to the next station after our already-long day of walking. I am so sweaty and hot and tired - just in time for our class tomorrow morning. Teo was right about Versailles, but I'm still glad I went. Such a luxury-packed weekend.  

The Time I Saw True Wealth Part 1

This was certainly a weekend of beautiful buildings - namely, castles.

Saturday began with a trip to Sainte Chapelle, a church near Notre Dame known for its tall stained glass windows. It was indeed very impressive, with scenes of the Bible depicted in dozens of panes. I love that on the outside, you don't know there's stained glass but once you get in, you can see the colorful light reflecting like a disco ball.

We tried to go inside Notre Dame afterwards, but it was closed for a special event and only French people could go inside. After later hearing of dangerous events in Lyon, we thought maybe it was connected to that but I haven't heard anything else about those events. It was still nice to walk around the St Michelle area.

Our class met at 5:45 p.m. for a special night adventure to Vaux le Vicomte, a palace apparently created by a top painter, architect and landscaper - the same as Versailles. But Teo loves this one more because it's smaller and simpler, yet still grand. He always says less is more. We brought sandwiches to eat on the bus; mine was ham + butter = great.

Let me tell you, Vaux le Vicomte was completely beautiful. It's a perfect castle enclosed behind gates, surrounded by a mote, and placed in front of a beautiful garden with reflecting pools. Also, the absolute best part: it's lit with candles every Saturday night. Literally, employees go around the property lighting hundreds of candles that are placed along the walkways and in the windows and all over.

There were ropes leading us through the mansion tour. The hallways were all painted a lovely golden yellow, with many bedrooms and parlors with dark tapestries and red curtains and painted ceilings. So extravagant.

One of my favorite parts of the interior was downstairs in the dungeon. Though it was chilly, I enjoyed seeing the servant's quarters, the kitchen, and a huge tunnel with barrels that was maybe a cellar or stable - my guesses. It was a nice break from velvet and porcelain and gold picture frames.

However, once we exited into the backyard, our mouths dropped. It was so pretty and delicate and impressive yet simple. A path ran through the center, with pools of water or lawns on the side. We couldn't stop taking pictures. The sky was the cherry on top, with the clouds striated across the sky in little chunks like shattered glass. Teo's wife, Scarlett, said this is the prettiest she's ever seen it.

As we made our way down the stairs into the garden, I wanted to soak it all in. Even though there are a lot of gardens on the West Coast, this was just elegant wealth and perfectly designed. Teo said around 10 p.m. when it slightly begins to get dark, we should wait behind the rectangular pool at the back of the estate to see the reflection in the water. As we waited, we saw giant fish swim up begging for food. Behind us, a giant Hercules statue protruded out of a huge grassy hill, a 40 minute walk away down a winding path. Many were over there picnicking, but we waited for the reflection.

It was breathtaking. Teo said this is the highlight of the trip and I know why. As the sunset, the reflection of the palace appeared in the still pool of water. The candles that lined the stairs and windows began to appear as well. Both inside and outside felt like a Halloween mansion with candles and darkness and dungeons. But pleasantly so!

There were not many tourists at Vaux le Vicomte, though there were a fair few to fill the stairs as they sat to watch the lights or have a romantic candle dinner at a restaurant on the property.

I loved it. I love lights. I loved the palace. And as we began to board the bus, the firework show began. We could see it from above a rooftop. It topped off the most beautiful night. A great merging of natural beauty and artificial construction.